What Makes Cape Kiwanda One of My Family's Favorite Vacation Spots
Along the Three Capes Scenic Road on the Oregon Coast - Letters from a Wanderer No 14
Cape Kiwanda is the southernmost of the three capes along one of the most dramatic stretches of the Oregon coast. The other two are Cape lookout and Cape Meares. The 40-mile stretch of road called Three Capes Scenic Drive crosses nearly every geologic and natural feature of the coast: rugged rocks and towering sea-stacks, sand-dunes, secluded beaches, and spruce or Sitka forests.
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Continuing the set of posts about my family’s recent vacation along the Oregon Coast, I’m bringing you to our longer destination, Cape Kiwanda. If you are just joining, you can read the other posts about the trip, starting with: Roadtripping from Phoenix to Cape Kiwanda, Cape Blanco and the Oregon Lighthouses, and Tidepooling on the Oregon Coast. Tidepooling was only one of the things we did in Cape Kiwanda. More about this destination, and its vicinity below.
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Over the years, my family often vacationed along the Oregon coast, and most of our favorite spots have been along the Three Capes Scenic Road, especially Cape Kiwanda, where we returned often.
Cape Kiwanda
In fact, we rented the same cottage one block from the beach the second time in a row, and this time spent over a week here. Using it as a base, we drove up and down the coast, taking day trips to several of our other favorite locations along the coast, including those along the Three Capes Scenic Drive.
But we also enjoyed spending full days on the beach of Cape Kiwanda.
What’s in a Name?
Cape Kiwanda got its name from Chief Kiawanda Rock, a haystack rock in the ocean, along the coast of Pacific City. Yes, the spellings are different, but they are both correct.
The rock and the cape are named after Chief Kiawanda, who was a well-known chief of the Nestugga tribe in the 1880s. The Nestugga and Tillamook tribes lived in the area before settlers arrived in the 1870s.
You won’t find any members of the tribes in the area, however. Like in so many other places in the US, they were forced out of their homes and moved to a reservation. At least the rock and the cape preserve the name of their chief.
Things to Do In Cape Kiwanda
Cape Kiwanda is a perfect place to go tidepooling, walk on the beach, or hike up onto the dune.
We love walking up the steep sand dune on the beach, then walking - rather running - downhill in the deep, soft sand. I rarely made it all the way to the top, but when I did, the views were amazing in every direction!
Once on top, the designated trail is easier to follow. Watching the waves hitting the rocks of the cape, I was a witness of them transforming the landscape. Crashing waves, sometimes reaching the top of the cape, are forming new caves and crevices, pummeling the soft sandstone that will crumble, reshaping the whole shore. It’s amazing to watch!
My favorite moments along Cape Kiwanda’s shore were early mornings, when the beach was quiet, except for the sound of the waves crashing on the shore.
The morning mist, the thick marine layer, was still enveloping everything, and the whole coast seemed like a dreamland. Even the sound of the waves seemed muffled.
It was the most peaceful time of the day, as I walked with wind in my hair and sand between my toes, admiring the gorgeous blue-green of the Pacific.
As the sun peaked out, the tide turned. Later, out with the whole family, we walked out at low tide to see new crevices, small caves, and all the tiny sea creatures in tide pools.
Sunsets were also amazing along the coast, both on clear cloudy nights. We had a favorite spot where we would go out each night to watch them.
Cape Kiwanda was also a great base for drives along the Three Capes Scenic Drive.
The Three Capes Scenic Drive
One of the most dramatic stretches along the Oregon coast, the Three Capes Scenic Loop, connects Cape Kiwanda, Cape Lookout, and Cape Meares. It includes nearly every geologic and natural feature of the coast, all within about 40 miles: rugged rocks and towering sea-stacks, sand-dunes, secluded beaches, and spruce or Sitka forests.
Cape Lookout
The hike at Cape Lookout is one of my favorites on the coast - even if sometimes it feels too long. We walked through a lush, wet old-growth forest, through large Sitka spruce, trees that only grow along the Pacific Coast from Northern California to Alaska. Huge ferns, huckleberry and salmonberry bushes also grow along the often extremely muddy trail. Occasionally, the trail on top of the cliffs along the cape leads closer to one side or the other, offering gorgeous views of the shores.
The viewpoint at the end of the trail drops almost vertically to the ocean and offers views of the expansive water and the shore. This is the best point to look for whales, sea lions, and seabirds. Over time, we’ve seen some during different hikes. Once we saw an orca, but we’ve also seen sea lions and most likely other whales, though we usually can’t really tell what we are looking at from this distance. It would be worth bringing binoculars for this viewpoint - something we usually forget.
Cape Meares
Cape Meares is home to the shortest lighthouse along the Oregon coast, the famous 200-year-old Octopus Tree, the largest Sitka spruce on the coast, and the largest colonies of nesting seabirds on the continent.
You can see all of them on a short, easy walk along the edge of the cape.
The sea birds are on the sea stacks, visible from the trail to the lighthouse. These rocks, jutting out from the ocean, are part of the Oregon Islands National Wildlife Refuge.
A short forest walk leads to the Octopus Tree that got its name from its shape, with its multiple trunks radiating upwards from its base.
Sitting at the very edge of the cape is the short lighthouse that dates back to 1889. Open for visits at certain times of the year, it offers a glimpse into the history of lighthouses on the Oregon Coast.
Beyond the Capes
The three capes are not the only places worth stopping along this route. Hiking trails along the coast, tiny villages, and one of the most scenic small towns also offer opportunities to stop.
Oceanside
Built on a steep hill overlooking the beach, Oceanside is one of the most scenic small towns on the coast. It is another one of our favorite spots along this area, where we vacationed several times.
The beach features three of the most dramatic sea stacks, and it changes with the low and high tide. During low tide, it is another perfect place for tidepooling, especially on the far side of the beach, beyond the tunnel.
On a clear day on the beach, you can enjoy a perfect view of Cape Lookout.
You can read more about the Three Capes Scenic Drives, and 7 best stops along it on Wanderer Writes, by clicking the link below.
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Thank you for reading and Happy Travels!
All the best,
Emese