Walking Among Ponderosa Pines
Did you know that Arizona is home to the largest Ponderosa pine forest in the world? It is not something you'd expect from a desert state... - Issue #25
Dear Reader!
Summer in Arizona is not a pleasant experience - if you think of Arizona as Phoenix and its immediate vicinity. However, just two hours north of the city, you can be in the largest ponderosa pine forest in the world and enjoy cooler temperatures. It might be too warm to hike mid-day even in the forest, but by late afternoon and in the early morning, you can enjoy cool weather in the shade of the Ponderosa pines.
We - Jeff and I now, since our kids have grown - drive up to Flagstaff often to enjoy this forest. The time we spend there is always special, no matter how often we go. And this time, we learned early September is one of the best times to be there… right after the Labor Day holiday weekend, when the crowds already left the area.
To make things even better, the last time we drove up was a new moon, which meant that when we camped at Sunset Crater, a dark sky park, we enjoyed the views of the night skies as much as our daytime walks among Ponderosa pines.
Ponderosa pines surround me on the trail behind our campsite in Sunset Crater. Here, they grow right out of the lava bed, either on the black sand and pebbles or even on top of porous lava rocks so sharp they can cut through the thick leather of cowboy boots (as I have proven thirty-two years ago).
I spot a steller jay jumping from one branch to another. I hear a woodpecker and try to locate it. I see it in another ponderosa. Ravens caw, both in and around the trees.
The barks of mature Ponderosa pines look especially bright orange in the setting sun. Their twisted branches are unique to each tree, giving them distinct personalities. We stop near one growing out of the lava rock, with twisted branches reaching out to the sky, to watch the setting sun illuminate Sunset Crater.
Ponderosa pines grow in the lava bed at Sunset Crater, Flagstaff, and the Mogollon Rim - all close to home for us. They are all part of the largest contiguous Ponderosa pine forest in the world, covering about 2.6 million acres, stretching from the state line with New Mexico to the South Rim of the Grand Canyon. Flagstaff and its vicinity are in the middle of this range which also includes the White Mountains, the Mogollon Rim, and the Coconino Plateau.
To be fair, Ponderosa pine is the most widely distributed pine species in North America. Its habitat extends through all the US Western states, from as far north as British Columbia to the Sierra Madre ranges in northern Mexico. I’ve seen them in Oregon and Washington, and I’ve seen them in Idaho and Montana. Still, nowhere are as many of them as in my own state.
Ponderosa pine forests were one of the main reasons I fell in love with Arizona so many years ago. Yes, the desert in and around Phoenix was unique, something I’ve never seen before (except in movies), but it was our visit to the High Country of Arizona, to Flagstaff and its vicinity that really got me to love the state. Ponderosa pines, and aspens. I remember writing letters to my grandparents, raving about Flagstaff and its trees.
These past few weeks we’ve been on several camping trips through Northern Arizona, trips that reminded me of my love for trees, and specifically the amazing Ponderosa pines.
In and around Sunset Crater they grow out of lava, black lava sand, and sharp lava rocks.
Farther from the fresh lava fields, they form thicker forests. Still, Ponderosa forests are always brighter than other type of pine forests I walked through. They grow farther apart, letting plenty of sunshine get through to the forest floor.
As they mature, they look so different, you might think they are a different species altogether. Young Ponderosas have black bark, earning them the nickname “blackjacks”.
They start to mature around the time they are 160 years old when the color of their bark changes into a beautiful golden color. They reach full maturity at about 240 years old, when their bark becomes more yellow, earning them the name “yellow pines” or “yellow bellies”.
It’s fun to look for Ponderosa pines of different ages in a forest. It always gives me a sense of wonder (and accomplishment) when I recognize their approximate age.
And, as they mature, they each have distinctive features, almost like personalities. Once they outgrow the black bark, they each have a different shade of orange, amber, or copper-colored bark, their branches showcasing unique shapes as they twist in every direction.
During their growth, as they mature, these amazing trees produce chemicals called terpenes in their bark, which gives them their distinctive aroma, faintly reminiscent of vanilla.
I love camping in the shadow of Ponderosa trees, which we did recently both near Sunset Crater and on the South Rim of the Grand Canyon.
While camping or hiking in a Ponderosa forest, we often encounter Abert’s squirrels running up and down the tree trunks or on the lava bed of the campground. Recognized by their tufted ears, dark gray backs, and long fluffy white tails, they are native to areas with ponderosa pines. They feed on the cones, buds, twigs, and tree sap of Ponderosa pines, and sometimes on mushrooms growing near these trees. In return, they spread ponderosa seeds, keeping the forest regenerating.
Of course, the common squirrel is also present in Ponderosa forests - and easier to photograph.
We always spot several Steller’s jays and innumerable crows and ravens here, birds that also help spread the seeds.
And, sometimes, like last time we were at the Grand Canyon, we also notice that larger mammals, like coyote and elk live in or frequent Ponderosa pine forests.
Before heading back into the desert, we stop for a walk along the Kendrick Park Watchable Wildlife Trail, leading through Ponderosa pines. It’s midday so we don’t see much wildlife, but I have the opportunity for a closer look at the Ponderosa pine forest along the trail.
Most of the trees here are blackjacks, younger than 160 years. Though most signs along the trail talk about animals you might encounter, one of them is dedicated to the Ponderosa pines, talking about the difference between the blackjacks and the more mature trees. Though short and sunny in most of the spots, the trail offered a fitting end to a trip focused on the Ponderosa forest of Northern Arizona.
Thank you for reading about one of my favorite trees!
Wishing you all the best,
Emese
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I miss the smell of Ponderosa Pine. I miss their majestic height.
Beautiful photos! It has been a long time since I've seen Ponderosa Pines. Thank you so much for posting this excellent article.